(click images to enlarge)
A packed Airbus 330 skims the Himalayas ¥ Tibet is the watershed of Asia ¥ First sight of Tibet from the road to Lhasa
Seasoned traveller Laura brought a sunhat ¥ laneway, old city ¥ Laura, Peldon and Barkhor Street shops and stalls
My preparation for my first visit to Lhasa was another city I had never seen before - Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province, which was only slightly affected by an earthquake in 2008 (Wenchuan County was devastated).This city of 11 million has been competely rebuilt in an awesomely big and successful government intervention. After our 24 hour stay our impression of Chengdu was of a young, lively and vibrant city that was friendly and welcoming. My youthful companion loved the mall culture and contrasted it with other cities we had visted where the city centre died at night.
We wondered how favorably the policies of the same central government would impact on Tibet.
The
first thing I saw, as we took our first look at Tibet through the windows of a
moving CR-V, was the Moon – clear and distinct in an almost cloudless blue sky. This
was to be my first trip to Tibet and I was intoxicated with excitement! Forgive
me but I couldnÕt help remembering that line uttered by the first man to step
on to the moon; ÒOne small step for big-nosed laowaiÉÓ
and so on.
Makye Ame Restaurant from Barkhor ¥ Tibetan furniture shop - "no photo!" ¥ Makye Ame Entrance (ground floor)
The correct way to hold the big wheel ¥ Dress dummies with moustaches ¥ A Lhasa shop is a feast of colours
Building site in will conform to the area ¥ New site in the suburbs of Lhasa ¥ Nomad camp outside Lhasa
Hillside meditation retreat above Sera monastery ¥ (above and right) House and garden of wealthy Tibetan family
Namaste Restaurant near Norbulinka ¥ Barkhor market stall selling stuff only a Tibetan could identify
Card game in Barkhor market ¥ Widebrim hats (shelter from the sun) ¥ White-washing the walls of Lhasa
New cake shop opened in Chinese style ¥ stone blocks for a new house ¥ An umbrella for Tibetan mother and child?
Wooden carts to bring goods to market ¥ Yak butter, Barkhor Market (above and right)
The next day Laura
and I were having dinner on the second floor of the
famous Makye Ame Restaurant where according to legend, around three hundred years ago the Sixth Dalai Lama liked to drink and
flirt with pretty ladies – and met his mistress. It seemed appropriate
that Laura was with me as her natural charm won friends (and gained valuable
information) wherever we went. The Sixth Dalai Lama would have loved her.
The
founder of the modern version of this restaurant, Tsering Wangqing, a Tibetan, came to Lhasa to look for investment
opportunities in 1997. With his acute business sense, he decided to start ÒMakye AmeÓ, combining Tibetan
culture and Tibetan cuisine. The restaurant soon attracted tourists from all
over the world.
Soon
there were several enthusiastic males at our table, including three
photojournalists from Beijing. They had such magnificent camera gear I was
instantly smitten with lens-envy. No one was remotely interested in my brand
new Canon 5D – all they wanted to do was to teach Laura how to use HER
newly acquired camera.
Eventually
they left the restaurant but we all met again within a short distance on Barkhor Square. I decided to take a shot of the three
jovial journalists together but I did something wrong, my camera suddenly wouldnÕt cooperate and both flash and
shutter went off prematurely – un-composed and out of focus.
Vegetable barrow seller and customers ¥ Lhapu Ciren in his Thangka shop ¥ The three journalists from Beijing
Selling caterpilla fungus ¥ Barkhor Market stalls ¥ Muslim shopping area of Barkhor in sight of the Mosque
The big prayer wheel has a special waistlevel pouch¥ the funny mask (click to zoom) ¥ monk robes and takeaways
Barkhor Street near Makye Ame ¥ Barkhor Shops ¥ Karma Gallery
Tibetan Traditional Restaurant ¥ new houses, Lhasa outskirts ¥ Right: Peldon's Landlady's wonderfully ornate lamp
I was
now standing in Barkhor Street and before me was a
typical Lhasa street vendor with his barrow, selling fresh fruit and
vegetables. He was about to close a sale to one Tibetan woman while another
thoughtfully examined a Chinese lettuce. I took a photo and went looking for the
younger and faster Laura – already out of sight.
It
was only later when I examined my photo that I discovered that the younger of the
two women, while she had one hand on the lettuce, in the other she had her
moneyÉ and her prayer beads. Was even shopping part of her religious practice
or were the prayer beads the result our current proximity to Jokhang Temple?
I had
a similar experience when I decided to buy a traditional thangka painting. Peldon, our Tibetan guide, took me to meet Lhapu Ciren, a Òthangka art masterÓ in his crowded gallery on Barkhor Street (which he shared with up to eight other Tibetan
artists - including two teachers). On this day all of them were totally absorbed, painting
in the sunshine as we spoke.
Lhapu Ciren seemed to be in charge, spoke English and had the biggest desk. He assured me
that all the work produced in this gallery was totally traditional.
Notwithstanding I asked him if he or his fellow artists (all male) ever felt
under any pressure from buyers – especially rich tourists – to
produce more commercial images.
He
totally failed to understand my question. The bulk of this galleryÕs customers
are Tibetan, followed by Chinese Buddhists – as yet overseas tourists
were only a small part of their trade. A thangka painting, like the many mandala on the walls of this gallery, is a religious work and is also like a poem which
can be skillfully executed by different speakers but essentially the words
remain the same. A White Tara is a White Tara and the exquisite sensual beauty
of its imagery is what attracts me.
Because
I have no understanding of the meditative disciplines that produce the abstract
patterns of mandala they tend to leave me cold. I
bought the Green Tara displayed on the wall of the gallery using my EFTPOS card. I could have ordered a new one to be painted
but it would probably not be ready before I left (and would be exactly
the same).
When I came to
Lhasa, as a foreigner I had to pay a permit fee of 700-Yuan (no charge for
Laura because she is Chinese). We had to stay in a designated tourist hotel.
The Heritage hotel was chosen for us because it had a wonderfully central
location. The cost for the hotel was 280 Yuan per night including a Western style breakfastÉ and thereby
hangs a taleÉ
Because of the
peculiarities of the permit system, one tourist season was over and the next
was yet to begin in a few days. So apart from Laura, essential staff and
myself, the hotel was empty.
With all the
complexities of getting permission for the visit that last sentence on the form
concerning ÒWestern style breakfastÓ had slipped past me. I eat a minimal
breakfast because my stomach doesnÕt wake up until at least 11.00 a.m. –
if not later. Laura is a very slim as well as attractive young lady so she eats
bugger-all. Plus, we were both suffering a little altitude sickness so mornings
in particular were difficult.
The breakfast girls, Heritage Hotel ¥ Corridor to guest rooms, Heritage Hotel ¥ Exterior, Heritage Hotel
My room - notice how tidy it is? ¥ Hotel reception ceiling ¥ Blazing sunlight on the sunhat Peldon installed on my head.
Each morning two local
young women would appear in the dining room and it was apparently their task to
get the breakfast music going. However they seemed to have a very problematic
relationship with the disco-like machine behind the bar. They would fiddle and
stab at it a few times (usually resulting in a loud Òthump!Ó from the speakers)
then they would both lean back and glare at it with their arms folded. After a long silence, the music (usually Bhangra)
would start to play. This happened every morning.
The comparative
emptiness of the dining room at breakfast must have been somewhat like being
the only wife in the harem. Each morning the full breakfast crew, including Mr. Bishnu, would confront us and wait eagerly for our
slightest request because we had signed up for ÒWestern style breakfastÓ
– the whole reason Mr. Bishnu was there. He was
offering omelets, porridge, eggs and bacon and so on. We were asking for coffee
and toast. At first he would stare at us uncomprehending, then his lower lip
would quiver and I swear I saw a tear welling in his pale brown eyes.
He silently left the
room, to return cradling my coffee in both hands. He walked slowly, rocking
gently from side to side and breathing heavilyÉ his parted lips revealing
slightly prominent front teeth. Clearly he was an aristocrat but with a dark
and mysterious air. Laura and I agreed – he was Count Dracula in disguise!
Bishnu is the name of an Indian mythical protector god.
He was from Nepal and he works in the hotel as a qualified chef, specializing
in Continental foods and western breakfastÉ but he really did look like the Count.
Peldon's former landlady in her beautiful house ¥ Lhasa market, old city ¥ Old Lhasa Doorway ¥ Nunnery firewood
Lhasa
is an exquisite, self-contained little city of about 400,000. It has a
beautifully preserved old section with Mediterranean-style whitewashed rows of
buildings in stone or mud brick. The paved laneways between them are usually
too narrow for any vehicle bigger than a wheelbarrow. The blinding sunlight
reflecting off the white walls matches the unbelievably blue sky above with
wispy white clouds.
Urban
Tibetans may have one of several ethnic origins, and most speak both Mandarin
and the Tibetan language (based on ancient Sanskrit). Quite a few spoke English
– for which I was truly grateful. TibetanÕs culture is totally permeated
by their religious practice – a universal and unquestioning devotion.
Their wonderful faces remind me of American Indians (real ones, not movie
actors); the strong Tibetan sun has browned their skin and their pearly white
smiles light the room.
Because
my permit had to be issued by a local tour guide, my Fairy Godmother in Beijing
contacted a Tibetan English-speaking tour guide named Tenzing Yugal. ÒTenzing!Ó –
at the mention of that name I was instantly back in my childhood and listening
to a school assembly talk by a Sherpa from Nepal: the famous Tenzing Norgay. He was HillaryÕs companion when they stood
together on top of Qomolangma (Mt. Everest) in 1953.
He
told his spellbound audience that on that day, nearly 9,000 meters above sea
level, the weather was completely clear and he could see into Tibet in one
direction and Nepal in the other. Now, a lifetime later, I was enjoying exactly
the same weather while a modern Tenzing had organized
a hotel for Laura and me near Jokhang Square which
was run by an incredibly sweet Tibetan lady who was always genuinely pleased to
see usÉ or just always happy.
It
was a requirement of the permit that I employ a trained and accredited tour
guide who would offer an approved itinerary. Tenzing recruited Peldon, a tall, willowy Tibetan lady who
speaks Tibetan, Mandarin and passable English. She is married, has a small
son and a husband. She is a little taciturn in English, a little intense and as
strong as a bull. I liked to fantasize about her pulling rich American tourists
out of icy crevasses with one hand while checking the time with the other to
see if she could still make the summit and back before dark.
PeldonÕs schedule for us began the day we arrived - May
11: we flew from Beijing to Lhasa, checked into the Heritage Hotel, met her
and went looking for a meal (including yak meat – tasty but a bit chewy).
Laura, my traveling companion, was completely at home in Lhasa because everyone
in business seemed to speak both Mandarin and Tibetan – even the little
Tibetan girl in the sweet shop near our hotel.
By May
12 we had begun to realize that fate had landed us right in the religious
heart of Lhasa – our hotel was close to Barkhor Square. We could see a modern mosque to the East about 100
meters (about 109 yards) from Barkhor Street in a special living area for Muslims. This is the Lhasa Great Mosque, rebuilt in
1959 after being burned to the ground. There are usually 250 to 300 Muslims who
worship daily at this site.
We were also right next to the famous Jokhang Temple – the most holy and most
important temple to all Tibetans. It was founded during the reign of King SongtsŠn Gampo (605 or 617? – 649). According to
tradition, he had the temple built for his two new brides: Princess Wencheng of the Chinese Tang Dynasty and Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal.
Both were dynastic marriages that did not produce children but DID produce the
establishment of Tibetan Buddhism.
Jokhang Temple
Laura, Peldon and pilgrims outside Jokhang ¥ the central courtyard (note gilded roof ornaments)
Peldon SMILES (a serious lady but a brilliant guide) ¥ Potala from Jokhang's roof ¥ Restoration work on Jokhang
My lady carers discuss our next move, having "done" Jokhang ¥ One of 2 giant incense burners in Jokhang Square
Both
wives are said to have brought important Buddhist statues, images and
scriptures from China and Nepal to Tibet as part of their dowries. All of these
were housed in Jokhang. Each
morning as we left the hotel and walked anywhere near Jokhang we had to take care not to trip over or tread on prostrating worshipers who
would suddenly throw themselves to the ground in prayer – protective padding
on their knees and hands.
The Chinese Government is currently spending a
lot of money and resources to restore and preserve all the remaining cultural
heritage of Tibet - the Jokhang Temple being but one example. This
restoration project started on July 26, 2009 and is said to be costing a total
of RMB30 million.
Jokhang is a four-stories high, its roof covered with gilded bronze tiles. The architectural style is a
blend of Indian, Nepalese and Tang Dynasty styles. On the roof are statues of two golden deer flanking a Dharma wheel. Although
some of the temple has been rebuilt, some original elements remain. The wooden
beams and rafters have been shown by carbon dating to be original; the
doorframes, columns and finials date from the 7th and 8th centuries.
Tibetan Buddhist Art is baroque in the extreme.
The art in each and every temple is incredibly rich in detail and each detail
has a story and a meaning. There are hundreds if not thousands of statues and
every one has its own complex derivation. Peldon knows them all. Her knowledge is encyclopaedic and her explanations are
exhausting. I think it was in the Sera Monastery where an elderly monk took her
arm and congratulated her on her knowledge.
Prostrations outside Jokhang Temple ¥ Bakhor Circumambulation to Potala (1) ¥ Bakhor Circumambulation (2)
Laura observes prostrating couple ¥ prostrations outside Jokhang Temple ¥ young prostrators
Pilgrims also circumambulate the temple as part of a pilgrimage to the Potala Palace. The circumambulatory route is known as the
"kora" in Tibetan and is marked by four
large stone incense burners placed at the corners of the Jokhang temple complex. After circumambulating the exterior,
pilgrims make their way to the main hall of the temple that houses the Jowo Shakyamuni Buddha statue - perhaps the single
most venerated object in Tibetan
Buddhism.
Our plan was first to witness the Barkhor Kora and, in the
afternoon, the Tibetan traditional market that was also in or near Barkhor Street and offered everything for sale you could
imagine that would fit under a beach umbrellaÉ mostly food, souvenirs and
clothing.
One evening Peldon took us
to the Himalaya Hotel, 20 minutes walk from our hotel, to see a performance by the Shol Opera Troupe – the Òliving fossils of Tibetan cultureÓ. They were all nomads - as well
as being friends of Peldon. There was live music from
a small Tibetan band, singing, dancing, and colourful costumes. They
offered us buttered tea and barley wine plus kada (white silk scarves) for each visitor.
According to the back of my ticket, it used to be a local troupe performing Gyormolung (Tibetan plays) and belonging to the Blue Mask sect of Tisbetan Opera. It was originally set up by a Lhasa village committee in 1959. It is the most complete and traditional of existing Tibetan troupes. In 1978 it adapted three former classics of the Gyormolung sect. In 1980 it took part in it's municipality's first Tibetan Opera Talent Quest and won first prize.
The first item on the program was a buffet
dinner and a long line quickly formed to enjoy a very nice meal. After dinner
the show started. It was a Tibetan opera with traditional musical instruments
and masks. Laura found it a little scary sometimes but enjoyed the Tibetan
dancing by beautiful girls and boys.
I found it truly joyous. The performers easily
communicated they were having a ball – including the improvised comedy of
two men in a yak costume being milked and falling about the stage when someone
tried to ride them. This scared an audience member so much the actors
apologized for this at the end of the show. There was also a fashion show exhibiting
cloth from Sichuan, Qinghai and Lhasa.
I wonÕt pretend I knew everything that was going on
but Peldon pointed out the references to Tibetan
history. The most important character – like the generals in Peking Opera
with flags on their backs – was of course SongtsŠn Gampo.
The most beautiful ladies in the troupe must have been his two famous wives.
Laura, Peldon at Norbolinka, the Summer Palace.
On May 13 we visited Norbolinka (ÒTreasure ParkÓ in
Tibetan, ÒSummer PalaceÓ in English) in the western
suburbs of Lhasa City and then on to the Sera Monastery. The Norbolinka garden covers an area
of 360,000 square meters (about 430,000 square yards). It is the largest
man-made public garden in Tibet Autonomous Region. Construction began in the 1740s.
The area used to be a wasteland with wild animals,
weeds and scrub which the Seventh Dalai Lama liked and often visited. Years
later, he built the palace Kelsang Potrang which eventually became the Summer Palace for
successive Lamas. Today, like the Potala Palace (also
known as the ÒWinter PalaceÓ) it stands empty except for caretaking staff and
tourist guides. We loved the gardens, patted the stray cats and Laura and Peldon amused themselves by dressing up and photographing
each other in traditional costumes.
Sera Monastery, Monk debate ¥ Sera Monastery sutra storeroom ¥ Monastery buildings and Tibetan visitors
Sera Monastery buildings and surrounding hills ¥ monk mealtime ¥ renovations to Sera Temple
Tibetan family visitors to Sera ¥ Sera Solar Waterheater ¥ Sera monk debating courtyard
Also on May 13th,
we went to Sera Monastery (founded
in 1419) in the afternoon. This is one of the 'great three' Gelukpa teaching monasteries of Tibet,
located 1.25 miles (2.01 km) north of Lhasa. This monastery is like an
iceberg – so much of it is not immediately evident. The name 'Sera' is said
to be due to the site where the monastery was built being surrounded by wild
roses (se ra in Tibetan). It includes about 19 hermitages, including four nunneries, which
are all located on a bare, rocky hillside.
There are also brightly
coloured religious paintings on some large rock faces on the hillside and above
them a small yellow building where a lone monk can meditate in solitude. Sera Monastery
has, over the centuries, developed as a reputation for scholarly learning and
trains hundreds of scholars, many of who have attained fame in the Buddhist community
The Sera Monastery is also
the best location to witness the ÒMonk DebatesÓ on the teachings of Buddha and the philosophy
of Buddhism. Debates among
monks on Buddhist doctrines are integral to the learning process in the Sera
Monastery complex – and a great attraction to visitors. This debating
tradition is supplemented by a system of gestures said to be exclusive to this
monastery.
Visitors can witness
these debates that are held every day in the 'Debating Courtyard' of the
monastery. The monks in their blood-red robes appear to be involved in an
elaborate dance as they debate in pairs – one squatting on the ground
looking puzzled while his partner stands over him and argues with a repertoire
of extravagant gestures. Each gesture has a meaning.
Tsamkhung Nunnery restaurant ¥ The nun's own mealtime ¥ Nunnery Kitchen
Nunnery Garden ¥ Peldon completely at home in the nuns workroom ¥ Nunnery fundraising shop
Prayerwheels in the garden ¥ Peldon tries the big ones inside ¥ Visitors in the Nunnery courtyard
May 14th saw us visiting Tsamkhung Nunnery in Lhasa. This nunnery is the only one in the old
quarter of Lhasa.
The current Deputy Director of the
administrative committee of the nunnery Tsultrim Lhamo remembers joining the nunnery:
ÒI had two masters when I entered in this
nunnery – one in charge of behavior and morality and the other in charge
of teaching scriptures. The director, Tenzhi Samo administered the nunnery and also taught us behavior
and morals.
This teacher who taught us scriptures was called Yundan and has now passed away. The nunnery had a
total of 30 nuns at that time, and they were from Shigatse, Nagqu, Lhoka, Chamdu and neighboring counties of Lhasa Municipality, such
as Taktse, Damshung, Nyemo, and Tohlung Dechen. I had no education before I came here but I started
to learn written Tibetan and scriptures after I joined the nunnery.
About 11 years ago, I was selected to be the Deputy
Director of the Administrative Committee of the nunnery. Now I am in charge of
the study and the life of nuns, as well as communication with outside to
protect and advance the nunnery. The nunneryÕs little restaurant has been in
business for eight months, as well as the little shop selling handcrafts and
souvenirs.
In addition, we opened a small clinic with some
western medicine. Since the price of medicine sold outside is expensive, we
provide a cheaper price so that we can help local people. The sweet tea we make
is very tasty, combined with milk and sugar. Many foreign visitors like it very
much. The restaurant sells buttered tea, Tibetan noodles and a variety of
dumplings. Our aim is to serve the peopleÓ
(Interview
courtesy of China Tibetan Research Office).
These days in an era of religious freedom, the
living standard of the nuns has improved. The nuns are very self-motivated.
They work together to take care of the nunnery, its gardens and all itsÕ businesses
including the shop and restaurant.
Peldon, Laura and I visited the restaurant twice for the sweet
buttered tea. Peldon said it was okay to photograph
the other customers as long as I was reasonably unobtrusive (no flash) but I
think the effect of her chatting with everyone in Tibetan made my photography
possible. We only had time for a quick glance inside the shop that seemed
fairly busy.
Peldon in the Summit Cafe ¥ French visitors using Summit's wireless internet ¥ Ring Zing Wangmo, the cafe's manager
My favorite photograph of Peldon was taken in the Summit CafŽ. I am clearly relaxing in a
comfy chair while she is leaning over me. I canÕt remember what she was saying
but I know that lookÉ she is telling me to hurry up because we have an
important temple to see and limited time.
The
Summit CafŽ was established in 2005 – apparently out of a love for Tibet,
its people and their colourful art. Yet the cafŽ, the food, beverages
(especially the coffee) are totally Western and the cafŽ would be at home in
urban Australia or the US. When US photographer, artist and cafŽ owner Doug Wilford discovered Tibet, he found many similarities with
American Indians. It has been said that the American Navajo could in fact be
ancient Tibetans who travelled long ago from Asia over the Bering straights
into North America.
The
manager of the cafŽ is a Tibetan woman who says her name is Ring Zing Wangmo. She is friendly, efficient and is fluent in both English
and Mandarin. There is also usually a table full of Tibetans who giggle like
schoolboys wagging school.
We
met a French couple, Tony and Catherine Catbadaws,
who were visiting Lhasa after spending a night in five star accommodation on Mount
Everest and came to Summit every day to use the free wireless Internet.
The
Summit CafŽ is also a registered Fine Art Gallery that provides local artists
the opportunity to show and sell their art.
May 15th was our much-anticipated visit
to the Potala Palace. Our tour guideÕs schedule was
reasonably flexible – we could ask for food and toilet stops (ÒPlease
Miss!Ó) and even ask a question as long as it didnÕt interrupt the schedule too
much. One day I expressed concern that I might get sunstroke on my bald spot. Peldon checked my skull, grabbed a big floppy hat off a
convenient market barrow, plonked it on my head,
yanked it about a bit until she was satisfied with the look and told me to pay
the nice lady as she strode off. Had we been in an American western movie she
would have been yelling WAGONS! ROLL!
Lhasa
rests in a broad river basin surrounded at a distance by the snow-capped peaks
of the Himalayan Mountains. Each peak looks a little like Mt. Everest (sorry – Qomolangma). I didnÕt see Lhasa from the air because
my Airbus 330 landed well away from the city, behind a mountain and through a
long, newly constructed tunnel. The only way to see this compact little city
from above is to climb the thousand odd feet up the many steep, uneven steps to
the Potala Palace – where you will see all
Lhasa lying below you (at about the same instant as you look over the wall and
notice the car park... and begin to wonder why you had to WALK up that bloody
hill!).
The
long climb took an hour and all my breath and energy. However I didnÕt feel so
bad when Laura, my 27 year-old travel companion, confessed that so far this was
the worst day of her life. Peldon the Amazon was
calmly waiting for us at the top of the steps as though she had just popped out
for a carton of milk and was wondering where we were.
I
know this sounds like a classic tourist clichŽ but you really canÕt get any
idea of the size, complexity and beauty of this massive architectural
masterpiece – the former Winter Palace of the Dalai Lama – from a
photograph. You have to see it spread across ÒRed HillÓ from the streets of
Lhasa. Then madness will seize you and you will want to walk up there!
My
impression is that every Tibetan knows Tibetan history backwards and if you can
find a common language you will have a fascinating conversation about King SongtsŠn Gampo and the introduction of Buddhism to Tibet (via his dynastic marriage to the
Tang Princess Wenchen and the
Nepalese princess Bhrikuti Devi).
Successful in both war
and diplomacy, King Songtsen Gampo built the first Potala Palacein 637 to greet his bride Princess Wencheng. It was
later destroyed by war and earthquake. Lozang Gyatso, the Great Fifth Dalai Lama, started the reconstruction
of the present Potala Palace in 1645.
Potala Palace in the evening ¥ taxi to the base of Red Hill ¥ pilgrims walking to Potala
The
building measures 400 meters east to west and 350 meters north to south, with
sloping stonewalls averaging three meters thick, and five meters (more than 16 ft)
thick at the base. Copper was poured into the foundations to help protect it
against earthquakes. The thirteen stories of buildings contain over 1,000
rooms, 10,000 shrines and about 200,000 statues. It soars 117 meters
(384 ft) above Marpo Ri ("Red Hill") and
rises a total of 300 meters (about 1,000 ft) above the valley floor.
The Potala actually includes two palaces: the Red and the White. The red one is dedicated
to religion and the white is for administration. This place is known for its
complex constructions, huge buildings and peaceful atmosphere. The public is
admitted to only a small section of the Potala and,
like most historic sites in Lhasa, photography is very restricted. The sense of
age and history is palpable, as though ghosts surrounded you and whispered in
your ear.
It is funny what can
catch your attention: I was fascinated by the Dalai LamaÕs old wooden radio in
a furnished room which was just as he left it when he cut and ran in 1959. The
art on display in the palace is worth the price of admission alone and we
actually watched part of the meticulous restoration of two large murals –
ÒmeticulousÓ because although each filled an entire wall while the figures and
details were tiny and the restorersÕ brushes were the size of writing pens.
Of
course, every day this steep climb forms part of the regular pilgrimage route
taken by true devotees from SongtsŠn GampoÕs
other great creation – the Jokhang Temple. A
long line of darkly-clothed Tibetans (they normally love bright colours) talk, laugh and finger their prayer beads as they
progress along the road together.
Departure
May 16th was the day we
had to, regretfully, leave Lhasa. For some reason, we arrived late at the train
station that was some distance from Lhasa. It was only five days after all, but
those days were so intense there was real sadness in our many goodbyes.
Laura disappeared briefly (possibly to buy a
last souvenir that I may have asked for) and what with one thing and
anotherÉ we arrived late at the station. The police were concerned that the
train was about to leave and we would miss it. Suddenly a young PLA soldier grabbed BOTH our cases (I could barely lift
mine!) and RAN with them to catch the trainÉ one in each hand! Bless him
wherever he is. I am cool with the PLAÉ okay?
The journey back to Beijing was slow; two days and two nights to cross a plain subject to permafrost. The carriages were modern, comfortable and the food in the dining car was fine. The only problem was that the plateau is vast and unchanging. See one yak or group of nomads on bikes, or mountains that look like Qomolangma... you have seen them all. Next time I'll bring a stack of DVDs for the laptop. I foolishly did not investigate Internet access.
In retrospect, and
remembering how much I want to go back again, I support the permit system.
Lhasa is a small, self-contained and totally unique community. Everyone wants
to go there, especially Mainland Chinese, but if everyone who wanted to go
thereÉ did, it would be swamped and changed irrevocably. Something very
precious and unique would be lost forever. In part it is the physical isolation
of Lhasa that preserves itÕs magic.
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Text and images Copyright Tony Ryan 2011